Thursday, February 5, 2009
Manage Your Time And Speed With a Tachymeter
Tachymeter scale is usually found on the dial of the chronograph watches. These simply give you the exact speed of any automobile or other vehicle at greater ease. These have the capability to give you the result in different units of measurement. The most commonly used units of measurement are meters and yards.
These types of watches are purposefully designed for motor and car racers. They just wear it on their wrist and can easily note down their speed of performance easily. These watches give them the accurate speed without the need for complicated calculations. These watches are very helpful during their training stream so that they can improve their ability towards racing.
Are you confused with the amount of brands that manufacture these tachometric watches? Seiko, Citizen are some of the most authentic brands that make watches at affordable prices. J.Springs by Seiko Instruments ?Gents Chronograph Bracelet White Dial? costs you around $500. The Fossil blue dial tachymeter watch will cost you around $40. The Casio chronograph with tachymeter will cost you around $50, and it comes with terrific combinations of red and black dials.
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Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Glow In The Dark
The ISO standards:
A luminous dial with 11 numerals glow with an intensity of 36nCd.Its hands must be at least 10nCd.
Photoluminescence / Phosphorescence
In photoluminescence, the energy is supplied by electromagnetic radiation (e.g. light). A photoluminescent material absorbs light for a significant period of time, then emits light with a lower frequency than that of the absorbed light.
In the 19th century, scientists paid particular attention to the phosphorescent properties of zinc sulfide. If copper or cobalt are included in the crystal lattice of the zinc sulfide, it can glow for hours after the exposure has ended.
The main drawback in using photoluminescent material in watches and clocks is that the luminescence diminishes rapidly and totally disappears after a few hours.
Radioluminescence / Autoluminescence / Radium
Radioluminescence can glow without any exposure to light and it is produced by nuclear radiation. Gamma and X-rays or Alpha and Beta particles are used to excite the electrons in a radioluminescent compound such as zinc sulfide. This type of radioluminescent material was used in watches for about 80 years.
Autoluminescent zine sulfide will continue to emit clearly visible light for several years.
Although radioluminescent material can produce bright and long lasting light, it is harmful. Therefore, it is prohibited from using in watches or clocks.
Tritium
Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen. It replaced the radium after World War II
The radioactivity is composed entirely of Beta particles that are nearly completely absorbed by the watch crystal or glass covering the dial. The tritium used in watches today is in compliance with the ISO 3157 and NIHS 97-10, which define the acceptable minimum levels for the amount of luminescence required to see the watch dial in the dark.
Depending on the quality of the radioluminescent compound, it can conserve its ability to luminescence for several years. The quality also influences the luminous intensity, which also depends on the surface and thickness of the deposit. The pigments of the natural yellow tint yield the best results.
Although Tritium is being used, it is harmful. All application or repair on watches or clocks must be handled with care - Do not touch the luminous dials and hands with your hands.
Self-Powered Micro Gas Lights (3H)
This Swiss technology safely captures pure tritium gas in a mineral glass tube coated with luminescent material. The light is produced when the electrons of the tritium strike the luminous phosphors on the inside of the glass.
Super-LumiNova
Super-LumiNova was first synthesized in the 1960s. This is a non-radioactive luminous material.
If the strontium aluminate is enriched with two rare earth metals, europium and dysprosium, and exposed to sunlight for a few minutes, the compound remains noctilucent for many hours.
Sunlight activated Super-LumiNova initially glows much more brightly than tritium. After about 2 hours, its luminosity declines to the same intensity as tritium. For the next 6 hours, its brightness continues to wane until the value of 7nCd/mm2.
If the material is activated by artificial light, the brightness is only 1/10 as bright as sunlight activated one. The brightness will reach the threshold of visibility for the unaided eye.
If the markers or hands have been coated with enough Super-LumiNova, they will remain legible up to 12 hours.
LumiNova can be greenish, bluish or greenish-blue. The color is determined when the strontium aluminate is enriched. When the LumiNova is viewed in daylight, the colors is almost limitless, it can be white, black, ... The colors are achieved by dying the crystals of the luminous material with a variety of coloring agents which are organic, fluorescent or non-fading colorants.
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Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Does the Sale of Replica Watches Sponsor Terrorism
Replica, or "Fake", watches have been with us since the technological revolution in Asia in the late 1970s. Given access to industrial equipment and seeing the weakness in their governments to enforce trademarks of foreign nations (or their ability to look the other way) many entrepreneurs have sprung up to feed a need. Replica watch makers have produced literally millions of fake Rolexes, Panerais, Omegas, and dozens of other top-named watch brands.
Working on "off-shifts" in factories that would normally produce legitimate goods during the day these replica watch makers produce counterfeit goods of varying quality. Looking to sell cheap $20 souvenirs to curious vacationers? Watches can be produced with low quality (and low price) materials to meet this price point. Selling to the burgeoning "Swiss Replica" market in the United States and Europe? Then the materials and manufacturing methods go up a notch because of the higher margins.
The people are motivated solely by replica watch industry’s lure of easy and fast money. These watches are produced in volume and put into the hands of dealers and distributors around the world. As long as the governments where these factories are located (China, Thailand, Taiwan) are lax in their support of international trade and trademarks fake watches will remain a profitable seller for these manufacturers.
Like any other marketable good these watches will sometimes make it into the hands of people who have no connection to the original maker but may have some other agenda. But the percentage of these people in the replica watch industry is minimal. 90% of the people selling these watches have some direct Asian connection to the manufacturers, and are also approaching the enterprise as a business.
To my knowledge there is no more of an identifiable link between replica watches and terrorism than there is between Iraq and weapons of mass destruction.
Definitely, these watches are illegal goods. The manufacturers have to contend with raids, custom seizures, bribery pressure, and all the things that come with the territory when you try to circumvent the government’s wishes. They deal with this by inflating their prices to cover these "expenses", and pass this overhead onto their dealers and ultimately their customers.
There is no overriding terrorist organization that is linked to the manufacture or distribution of these goods. These men are driven by the fact that there is a thriving market for this product in the United States. It is this willingness for people to pay $900 to $1,500 online for a fake watch that costs $75 to manufacture that continues to drive this industry.
But these manufacturers aren't tied to the replica watch business. The minute it becomes unviable from a financial standpoint (their governments put more pressure on them, or less likely, there’s a decline in interest in replica watches in the Western world) they’ll immediately stop manufacturing fake watches and move onto the next profitable item.
While terrorism can be linked to illegal activity let's not link it where there is no hard proof. Fake watches are a problem of international trade, not international terrorism.
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Monday, February 2, 2009
Anti-magnetic Watch
According to the DIN 8309 (Deutsche Industrie Norm - German Industry Norm), an anti-magnetic watch must resist a magnetic field of 4,800 A/m (Ampere per meter) or about 60 Gauss and have a maximum deviation of 30 seconds per day.
2 Ways of making an anti-magnetic watch:
1. Using different alloys
Alloy Components
Glucydur beryllium, bronze
Invar carbon, chromium, iron,nickel
Nivarox beryllium, chromium, iron, nickel, titanium
Elinvar chromium, iron,nickel
Less resistant to magnetism and more resistant to thermal influence than Invar
Different components of these alloys have different properties. Since the 50's Nivarox and Glucydur were extensively used by the watchmakers. Starting with the 60's almost all Swiss watches had Glucydur balance and Nivarox hairsprings. The anchors, escape wheels and other parts of the timing mechanisms were also made of non-magnetic materials or alloys.
2. Another way of making an anti-magnetic watch is to surround the entire movement by a case made of a highly conductive (permeable) material. The movement is covered by an additional soft-iron clasp to prevent the forming of magnetic fields inside the watch itself.
Drawback: the watch case is relatively big and thick.
The second method is used widely because of its low cost and low technology; however, Most famous brand would use both methods to increase the anti-magnetic ability.
Magnetic field:
A magnetic field is a force field that surrounds electric current circuits or it can also be found in the vicinity of ferromagnetic materials such as iron.
In daily life, all electric appliances produce magnetic field. Moreover, audio speaker is a common source of magnetic field.
That is why not only engineers need anti-magnetic watches.
Examples of anti-magnetic watch:
IWC
In 1989 IWC assembled the Ingeneur which was able to withstand a huge magnetic field of 500,000 A/m. In 1993, when IWC celebrated its 125th birthday, the company substituted this model with a more conventional Ingeneur, resisting a magnetic field of 80,000 A/m.
Ball
Engineer Hydrocarbon series can withstand 12,000A/m.
Other anti-magnetic series can withstand 4,800 A/m.
Rolex
In 1950's Rolex assembled the Oyster Perpetual Chronometer Milgauss Ref. 6541 which was able to withstand 1000 Gauss or about 80,000 A/m.
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Saturday, January 31, 2009
Choosing Watch
Dress WatchThe most common is gold, plain, and thin. A rotating bezel, or any bezel with markings on it, is not suitable. The dial and hands are less important, but avoid thick markings and hands with lots of tritium. Moreover, chronograph is not a good choice, too. If the watch is gold, get it on a strap - you may spend less money with better looking.
Sports WatchThese watches are usually large, water-resistant to some degree, and have thick, luminous hands and markings. Two important sub-categories are Diver's Watch and Pilot's Watch. All modern Divers' watches are inspired by the Rolex Submariner, and all Pilots' watches are inspired by the IWC Mark XII or earlier.Remark: Nowadays, "Diver's Watch" is a style. If you do not want to die, make sure your Diver's Watch meets the standard before you dive !!!
Designer WatchThese watches are designed by someone with a worldwide reputation, and the designer's name is publicized. These watches are more like an art work than a watch.
If you are going to buy a watch, you should choose a style at the beginning.
Case Materials
A watch case can be made of any solid, but some common materials are: plastic, metal, high-tech materials (e.g., ceramic, pulverized diamonds). The cheapest watches are made of plastic, the most expensive watches are made of gold, white gold, platinum or some high-tech materials.
If you are going to buy a Sports Watch, Gold may not be a good choice. This is not because of the price, this is because gold is much softer than stainless steel and titanium.
Bracelets or Straps
A wristwatch should have a bracelet or strap to attach it to your wrist. If the attachment gets its flexibility from solid parts (made of the same material as the case) that are linked together, it's called a bracelet. If the material is inherently flexible (e.g., rubber, leather), it's called a strap.
A bracelet is always designed for a particular watch model, or at least a series of models from the same manufacturer.
Straps, however, are frequently bought separately from the watch, and for a very simple reason: They wear out frequently.
If you are going to buy a dress watch, a leather strap will match your suits or tuxedo.
Quartz or Mechanical
Most people think that mechanical watch is for rich people; however, Seiko offers lots of choices to the world for less than US$50.
The truth is most expensive watches are Mechanical but the most user friendly watches are Quartz.
If you are going to buy a watch for daily use or Sports, Quartz will not be wrong !
Most people use -4+6 secs/day as the reference for an C.O.S.C. Mechanical watch.
However, If you are going to buy a watch for daily use, Quartz has much better performance: ±1 sec / day
Functions and Features
Every watch shows the hour and minute (usually with two hands), some show the second, date and day at the same time. Anything beyond these basics is called a "complication".
A chronograph is a watch that acts like a stop watch; that is, it can measure intervals of time. There are usually two pushers on either side of the crown. The upper one starts and stops the timer, and the lower one resets it to zero.
Two more complicated chronographs:
A flyback is a chronograph which works as follows: first push of the chrono button starts the seconds hand. Second push causes the seconds hand to reset to zero and begins. The purpose of the flyback is to begin re-timing quickly.
A split seconds or rattrapante or doppelchrono (double chrono in German) has two seconds hands, the first push starts both hands together, the second push stops one hand while the other continues, and another push allows the stopped hand to catch-up with the moving seconds.
Some watches show multiple time zones or called GMT.
Watches that emit an audible time signal are called repeaters.
Brands of Watches
The brand affects the price of a new watch and a secondhand watch. Rolex is an good example.
Moreover, brands tell us the quality of the after sales services. Rolex is world wide and her after sales services have good reputation. But some famous brands do not have qualified services; therefore, search the web or even go to the service center before you buy an expensive watch.
where to buy
From an authorized retailer is a good start.
If you really want to buy from an unauthorized, or "gray-market," dealer, keep all transaction records / invoices in case of something happens.
REMEMBER: Low price may not be a bargain; high price may not be true.
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Friday, January 30, 2009
Corum Bubble Watches
Corum collections have been created in the way to help every customer find a reliable timekeeping companion corresponding to one?s personal style and needs. For example, if you are a lady who would like to own a watch uniting functionality and elegance of a jewelry piece, Corum?s Romantic Collection, which presents an attractive combination of color and elegance, is sure to draw your attention. If you are passionate about sailing, the brand has created the Admiral's Cup collection in the spirit of true sailors.
The collection of Corum Bubble replica watches represents one of the most popular styles developed by the brand. The distinctive characteristic of the Bubble replica watches is a thin, domelike bubble-shaped sapphire that transforms the watch?s face in the most magnificent and advantageous way. Corum?s designers continue to create new styles to complete the line, such as the Corum Bubble Bats featuring the gothic design and the Corum Bubble Dive Bomber, reminding us of World War II. The unequalled face styles of Corum replica watches match a wide range of band styles.
The Idea of Bubble Watches
Corum Bubble watches may be rightfully described as bold in design and fashionable. You may naturally wonder how the idea of creating these timepieces was born. Bubble watches appeared due to hard efforts and creativity of Severin Wunderman, the chairman of the brand. This ?golden-touch? artist explains his inspiration for developing bubble watches by the habit to read about everything related to the field of watch-making. The Bubble was suggested by a Rolex timepiece on Professor Picard's submarine which featured a huge sapphire necessary for resisting the pressure.
The limited together with non-limited edition Bubbles have instantly become highly demanded, even among the secondary market customers, as they are completely different from anything else presented in the market place, as well as fashionable, affordable and of reliable quality.
Corum Bubbles? Variations
The Corum Bubble replica watch collection comprises a wide range of different designs, with Family, Skeleton, GMT, Bats, Night Flyer, and Casino being the most popular ones.
Every of these watches? models has its own distinctive peculiarities. For instance, the Bubble GMT?s dial features a gorgeous colorful map of the world and the second Time Zone indicated by the fourth hand with the attractive red arrow head.
The Corum Bubble Mid-Size model is for those who prefer more conservative watch-making style offering extra legibility doe to oversized luminescent hands and large hour markers.
The Bubble Bat watch is also worth being mentioned. You are sure to be fascinated by Corum?s a lacquer dial depicting two black bats on a blue moonlight background. The second hand?s shape resembles a bat?s tooth.
If you are looking for a watch not for everyday wearing but for the needs of a real swashbuckler, the Corum Bubble Privateer watch makes your dream come true. Reflecting the dark theme of the Bats watches, this model will strike your imagination with a black lacquered dial featuring a pirate?s bandana-wearing skull and two crossed swords.
Even if you are not one of those gamblers or frequent casino visitors, the Corum Casino Bubble, daringly designed like a tiny roulette table with a simulated roulette ball placed at the end of the seconds hand, will make you penetrated with the most adventurous and venturesome spirit. The watch?s owners will become the gamblers not on the casino floor but in life in general.
One of the latest innovative models added to the Bubble Collection is the Bubble Baron Samedi. It will stir your imagination with the underworld together with its dark sided figures. Baron Samedi, the god of death, stands at the crossroads where the souls of the passed away follow their way to the underworld.
Whatever model of Corum replica watches you choose, no doubt it will make you stand out from the crowd.
Now the author is dealing in top quality replica watches,to know more information about the replica watches,please visit the website:http://www.hellorolex.com.
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Thursday, January 29, 2009
ETA - ETA SA Manufacture Horiogère Suisse
ETA SA Manufacture Horiogère Suisse is one of the world's largest manufacturers of watches and movements.
Because of copyright, more information can be found at http://www.eta.ch/
ETA movements are very common nowadays because of reliability, accuracy, functions and cost.
Most brands produce their "Own Movement" from the ETA. They may modify part of the movement (e.g. Omega Co-axial movement), further develop (ORIS Cal. 635, base: ETA 2836-2), or only improve the parts by fine polish in order to upgrade the appearance of the parts and reduce the friction between the parts.
Because ETA is very very common and most famous brands use ETA movements, some replicas or fakes use ETA movements to cheat customers.
Some use the ETA standard grade to pretend the C.O.S.C. grade ETA movement or only use the ETA movement in order to make the fakes and the replicas more like SWISS MADE.
If you want to buy a watch from someone other than the authorised dealer, PAY ATTENTION ! Low price may not be a bargain; high price may not be true.
Now the author is dealing in top quality replica watches,to know more information about the replica watches,please visit the website:http://www.hellorolex.com.
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Wednesday, January 28, 2009
How to Order Wholesale Silver Jewelry
Steps
1. Ask: Is the design provided by the buyer or does it belong to the manufacturer? This will have a direct impact on the final price quoted by the seller. There is an initial overhead to be borne for design and mould charges and this will be added to the price tag of the first piece. If the initial order for wholesale silver jewelry is a large one, this initial charge is spread over a large volume and therefore does not increase the price per piece significantly.
2. Ask: Why is the first piece priced high? One of the main reasons is explained in (a) above and involves the initial design and mould charge. Subsequent orders for the same design will use the same mould and therefore be sold at a lower price. In many cases the buyer, would first order a single piece, then place a wholesale order after receiving the first piece. In such a case the seller would have to protect himself from a situation where the buyer buys only the first piece from him and then looks for another seller to place the final order. The seller would thus like to recover all initial overheads from the first piece itself.
3. Ask: Why does the price fall as the volume increases? Large orders of wholesale silver jewelry provide the seller with the economies of scale. Production is much easier as the design and moulds can be reused to manufacture the jewelry. Craftsmen do the production of the same design . multiple times thus reducing the chances of breakages and other losses. In cases where the wholesale silver jewelry also includes gemstones or diamonds, the seller gets a better price when bulk purchases are made. All these factors combine to enable the seller provide a better price to the buyer as the volume of the order increases.
4. Ask: Are gemstone options limited? If you buy your wholesale silver jewelry from a seller who is also the manufacturer, there is no reason why the gemstone options should be limited. However, there is a price range within which, most buyers would like their silver jewelry to remain and this might influence the gemstone selected. Wholesale sterling silver jewelry made with gemstones like aquamarine, tourmaline, ruby and sapphire would be quite expensive and have a limited market.
5. Ask: Should silver jewelry be plated? Plating on silver can be done with rhodium, white gold, yellow gold and even platinum. Plated wholesale sterling silver jewelry will look awesome when new but the plating will wear off with time and the jewelry might look quite shabby. The plating wears off in patches and in many cases the jewelry becomes a piece of junk. All silver jewelry manufacturers will provide plating at a small additional charge.
6. Ask: Is the craftsmanship always bad? This need not necessarily be true but once again the market price point influences the decision. Wholesale 925 silver jewelry is produced by a mechanized process, however it is possible to provide good handfinishing in the final production phase and improve the quality of the jewelry. This adds to the price tag and is therefore avoided in most cases.
7. Ask: What are benefits of good metal weight? Wholesale silver jewelry is normally made with a low silver weight to save costs. This causes the jewelry to bend and twist at the smallest impact. The gemstones and diamonds will also be loosely mounted and could drop off at any time. A good silver weight on the other hand adds to the long term durability of the jewelry and the final consumer need not keep spending money for frequent repairs and modifications.
8. Ask: How big is a wholesale order? As the number of manufacturers for wholesale silver jewelry decreases, those remaining in business set higher volume requirements to confirm orders. This could pose a problem for buyers as they might be left with inventory of unsold stocks.
9. Remember that many buyers of sterling silver wholesale jewelry would like to make smaller lots of jewelry to test the market and large orders might not be suitable in such cases.
10. Ask: What is the minimum order quantity by design ? This answer depends of the factory principally, but an order can start from 10 to 15 pieces for the same design. This is the minimum acceptable. Under this quantity the price by piece is too high. I explain, one worker can produce 2 pieces of one design in 1-2 days (example) and this same worker can produce 25 pieces of this same design in just 5-6 days.
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Monday, January 19, 2009
Confrerie Horlogere: An Alliance Of Independent Watchmaking Talent Organized By BNB Concept SA
Buttet stated, "the Confrerie Horlogere, far from being a product, is an ambitious project to promote such values as work, creativeness, craftsmanship, community spirit, and respect. Above all, it is the freedom of women and men moved by the will to express themselves through excellence".
Each year, the Confrerie Horlogere will choose seven individuals. These gifted watchmakers will then be able to develop a unique modern creation of luxury watchmaking, with technical innovation and individual character being among the most important guiding principles. According to BNB Concept SA, the production of these watches will be limited to editions of ten pieces or less. Notably, all creations of the Confrerie Horlogere will be accompanied by a lifetime guarantee. Each timepiece, through its design and mechanical movement, will also reflect the experiences and life story of the specific creator.
For 2008-2009, the Confrerie Horlogerie has chosen David Rodriguez, Brigitte Carneiro, Ken Koshiyama, Ranieri Illicher, Clara Bise, Gabriel Salgado de Arce, and Sabitry Montandon. The first four timepieces, which will debut through the 2009 year, are David Rodriguez's "la Resilience", Brigitte's Carneiro's "la Face Cachee", Ken Koshiyama's "Racines Japonaises", and "la Passion a l'italienne" by Ranieri Illicher.
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Sunday, January 18, 2009
Getting a watch custom made
Yes, you can find people who will make you a custom watch just like custom watches have been made for centuries - by hand. You can also find, not surprisingly, many other ways of keeping time as well. Not only can you keep time with a cell phone you can also create a watch that identifies your personal interests, that can make a bold statement with color and face plate, or that can be sold by your local school or little league team for profit. Yes, the original Swiss watchmakers must be turning over in their graves!
TIPS FOR A CUSTOM WATCH
No matter what angle you would like to take, there are some general things to consider before getting a custom watch made.
1. Decide what you want. If you are a collector of old timepieces, having a traditional watch custom made for you may be something you have always wanted to do.
On the other hand you may want a custom logo watch, a promotional watch or you may have a locket or piece of vintage jewelry you would like to use to house a watch. Decide what it is that you want for an end product and work from there.
2. Know your budget. This is an important point for any purchase because it is about knowing your financial limits. Knowing what you can spend will help you choose the right maker.
3. Make inquiries and get pricing. A one of a kind watch is made by a small number of companies and of course will cost more than a ready-made watch that has been customized. Don’t make assumptions when purchasing something special; ask for pricing and details in writing.
4. Know what types of customizations are available. A one of a kind watch can become one of a kind in several ways. A production model watch becomes a custom watch by adding a unique dial or a personally engraved rotor, depending on the model chosen. A watch could be one of a kind due to the vintage movement chosen or the odd combination of decoration and complicated mechanics, such as a tourbillion or repetition minutes.
A custom watch can also be distinguished by the choice of materials. The metal and the stones you choose can change the price a bit and can also affect what you wear the watch with and where you choose to wear it.
Know what a particular company can give you in terms of customizations. Some companies can do no more than change the faceplate and give you a customized band.
WHERE TO FIND THE MAKERS
Research the type of watch you are interested in having made custom and you will probably find the very people that can make that watch for you.
Making a trip to Switzerland is no longer necessary to obtain the custom watch you dream about. A simple search on the web will assist you without the trip. Not only are these watchmakers found on their own websites, you can also locate them at watch making association websites, watch making history sites and local vendor sites can point you in the right direction.
You options grow and broaden if you are willing to accept a custom designed machine made watch. Head for the next watch and jewelry fair to locate manufacturers of custom machine made watches. You can find these fairs advertised on line along with a list of the manufacturers who will be attending them. You will be able to speak directly with a manufacturer’s representative to discuss the watch you are looking for.
Once you locate the manufacturer, your watch is simply a matter of telling them what you want.
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Saturday, January 17, 2009
Antique Clock Repair - How to Find the Parts You Need to Maintain Your Clock
First of all, I want to be clear that I am not a clockmaker nor do I build or repair clocks for a living. However, I have learned (the hard way) about how to find reputable dealers and information about antique clock repair. We inherited an heirloom grandfather clock and an inept repair person did significant damage to the clock. I blame myself because I could have easily avoided that situation by doing a little research online.
Don't make the mistakes I did. I suggest you start here: the American Watchmakers and Clockmakers Institute and then I'm going to immediately tell you that this organization is the basis for some controversy in the antique clock community - especially among those who repair clocks.
Here's why: Horology (the study of art and timekeeping devices) has a tradition of being learned through apprenticeship, observation and "hands on" (excuse the pun) training. However, the AWCI decided that there needed to be certification standards and developed courses to teach the basics. You could even take those courses yourself, if you wanted to really learn the basics. Go to the site and look around and investigate that possibility. Figure out what is included in training.
Personally, I think that years of experience, a good reputation and a proven track record in repairing and maintaining antique clocks counts for something, too...maybe even more than certification. But that is just my take because a "certified" clock repair person broke our clock. So I'm a bit biased. I'm sure there are some excellent, certified people out there, too.
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Friday, January 16, 2009
Cleaning diamonds at home and professionally
Cleaning Diamonds: How Stones Get Dirty
Because of their carbon composition, diamonds naturally attract grease. In fact, when diamonds are mined, they are separated from other stones, dirt, and rubble by being passed over a grease belt. Grease accumulates on diamond jewelry from lotions, dishwater, cosmetics, and even natural skin oils. Simply touching a diamond leaves a thin film of oil on the stone’s surface, and the slightest accumulation will begin to dull the stone.
To keep diamonds from becoming dirty, avoid touching them as much as possible. Removing diamond jewelry before taking a shower or bath, or before applying makeup or lotion, minimizes dirt and grease accumulation. Diamond jewelry should also be removed before using harsh cleaning chemicals that may scratch or weaken the setting. Chlorine can dissolve gold, so jewelry should never be worn while using bleach-based cleaners or while swimming in a chlorinated pool, and such cleaners should never be used on gold or diamond jewelry.
Cleaning Diamonds: Types of Stones
Diamonds are the hardest and most durable gemstones, but they are not impervious to damage. If handled carelessly, diamonds can scratch one another, and other stones can scratch or damage the diamond’s setting, potentially loosening the stone. The tips of intricately cut stones can be chipped and should always be cleaned carefully.
Most jewelry cleaning chemicals will not harm diamonds, but they may affect other stones in the setting or even damage the metal. When cleaning diamond jewelry, always take the precautions necessary to protect the weakest stone in the piece.
Fracture-filled diamonds require extra caution. These are flawed stones that have been treated with glass film under extreme heat to coat cracks and flaws, brightening the stone and heightening its clarity. Even though the treatment may not be visible, the glass filling is more susceptible to discoloration from harsh cleaning chemicals and the stone should be treated as more delicate than an untreated diamond.
Cleaning Diamonds: At Home Techniques
For general cleaning, soak the jewelry in warm, sudsy water with a mild detergent, then use a soft-bristled, non-metallic brush to gently scrub the piece. The water should never be boiling, which could warp the metal and loosen the setting. Most dirt accumulates in the crevices around the prongs and setting, so concentrate on those areas. If the dirt is caked on and difficult to remove, use a toothpick or unwaxed dental floss to loosen it, and consider soaking the piece for a few minutes longer. Rinse the jewelry in clean, running water, and dry with a soft, lint-free cloth to avoid lodging any dust particles in the setting. If you are using a sink to soak and clean the jewelry, always be sure the stopper is firmly in place to avoid losing valuable stones down the drain!
If mild detergent isn’t strong enough to remove all the dirt, a solution of one part hot water and one part ammonia can be effective. Ammonia also brightens metals, especially yellow gold, and can give an additional luster to jewelry. Ethyl alcohol is another alternative, and because alcohol evaporates quickly it does not leave water spots. Commercial cleaners are safe for most diamond jewelry, but be sure to read the instructions carefully and avoid leaving the jewelry to soak for too long.
Weekly cleanings help keep diamond jewelry looking its finest, and the more frequently it is cleaned, the easier it will be to keep sparkling. Regular cleanings also avoid the need for riskier techniques that may be required to remove decades of buildup. The simplest cleaning of all is to gently blow a puff of warm breath on the diamonds, particularly rings, whenever they’ve been touched, and wipe them on a scarf, handkerchief, or sleeve to remove the smallest layer of film.
Cleaning Diamonds: Professional Cleaning
Professional cleaning may be necessary if the diamond jewelry is extremely dirty. Jewelers use steam or ultrasonic cleaners to remove the buildup, but the process could take hours. Ultrasonic cleaners literally shake dirt loose with high frequency sound waves transmitted through a detergent solution. These vibrations could damage stones by enlarging flaws or weakening the setting if used too frequently. If all other cleaning methods fail, diamond jewelry may be boiled in sulfuric acid in extreme cases, but this is risky and could damage the piece.
Even if you regularly clean your diamonds at home, it is wise to have them professionally cleaned once or twice a year. This gives the jeweler the opportunity to inspect the setting, prongs, and stones to be sure they are still secure and in no danger of being lost. The professional cleaning will also remove any hidden dirt or residue that may evade regular home cleanings.
Cleaning is an easy and efficient way to preserve any piece of diamond jewelry. With proper cleaning, diamonds can maintain their sparkle and beauty for many years, and their brilliance will always attract a sparkling smile.
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Thursday, January 15, 2009
Cartier joins a select group of watch manufactures to display the Geneva Seal
Created in the 19th century by a guild plagued by counterfeit products, the Geneva Seal is currently considered to be the symbol of watch-making perfection.
Enacted into law in 1886, the Geneva Seal is probably one of the oldest professional labels, recognized both as an indication of independent origin and a guarantee of superior quality.
Three prerequisites determine the award of the Geneva Seal:
* The movement must be mechanical and, at a minimum, assembled and adjusted in the canton of Geneva.
* Each calibre must meet twelve technical and aesthetic criteria outlined in the regulations, which have a bearing on its design and characteristics as well as the quality of the manufacture and finishes.
* The calibre must be approved and officially recognized by the Office for the Voluntary Inspection of Watches from Geneva (Bureau de Contrôle Facultatif des Montres de l'Etat de Genève). This Office is supervised by a sworn-in commission composed of members that have been appointed by the government of the canton.
"For Cartier, winning the Geneva Seal certification for this new calibre confirms its priority to uphold the most prestigious watch-making tradition of all," the company said in a statement.
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Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Hour Power Watches for Every Season and Every Reason
Many men have pocket watches in a box or drawer somewhere hidden away from the world but held onto for the same reasons. It’s not a day-to-day functional piece of jewelry. Have you ever asked someone for the time and they pulled their pocket watch out? The simple fact is that time has marched on and the heirloom pieces of jewelry we feel sentimentality about are no longer useful or stylish and are often relegated to a box or drawer only to see the light of day during spring-cleaning.
HourPower Watches® has a contemporary piece of jewelry that addresses the sentimentality of the heirloom. With the marriage of the pocket watch and the locket they have taken both men’s and women’s heirloom jewelry into this century. From bezel to band the appointments and details of these quality timepieces are visible. What’s not visible is the secret chamber under the face of the watch. Simply lift at the tab placed at six o’clock and you will reveal a compartment with an engraving surface to hold your own heartfelt sentiments and a protected area for a photograph or a small memento.
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Tuesday, January 13, 2009
How do I identify a counterfeit watch?
Understand that manufacturer catalogs and websites usually do not show all the models and variations they make. So just because you do not see an item in a catalog or on an official website is not by itself proof that a watch is fake.
Look at the zOwie Rogues Gallery of Fakes page for photos showing some of the tell-tale incorrect features on some of the counterfeit Omega watches we've seen. Even if you are interested in other brands of watches, the illustrations of fake Omega watches will show you what types of errors and omissions to look for on any fake.
Are the logos and face details incorrectly or poorly reproduced?
Are details wrong? Often, fakes confuse names and parts from different watches. Or a replica may have style of hands normally found on a different model watch.
Does it have any unusual, unexpected, missing, or non-functional features? While it looks really neat, not very many genuine fine watches have see-through backs. Fakes may not replicate unusual features, such as a helium relief valve, or those features may not function.
Chronographs may have non-operating subdials and stopwatch functions.
Are any of the colors or texture details wrong? Fakes sometimes come in color combinations or bezel textures not available on the real watches.
Clasp on bracelet may look different and have a much simpler latch mechanism. Bracelets my be made simpler.
The quartz Chronograph dilemma: Because of the complexities involved, you will seldom find a fake watch with working chronograph (stopwatch) functions that has an automatic movement. So if you see what should be a mechanical movement chronograph where the second hand is moving in 1 second increments, it is likely a fake.
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Monday, January 12, 2009
Titanium watches and information guide
Titanium is a metallic element found in the earth's crust. The element occurs as a bright, lustrous metal or a silver-gray or dark gray powder. Its compounds are found in practically all igneous rocks and their sand deposits.Titanium has a number of characteristics that make it valuable for industrial and commercial use such as its strength - Titanium is 30% stronger than steel. It's also light, nearly 50% lighter than steel. It resists corrosion better as well. When exposed to the atmosphere, titanium forms a tight, tenacious oxide film that resists a variety of materials that corrode other metals. It is especially resistant to salt water corrosion.
History
The first mention of titanium in scientific writing occurred in 1791, when an amateur British scientist, William Gregor, analyzed some sand from Comwall and found "a reddish brown calx" he couldn't identify. He wondered if it was a new metal. Four years later an Austrian chemist, Martin Heinrich Klaproth, confirmed that Gregor had indeed discovered a new element. Klaproth named the element "titanium." named it after the Titans, the first sons of the earth in Greek mythology. Their mother was Gaea (Earth). They were a race of giant deities who ultimately were overthrown by the Olympian gods. They are associated with great size and strength--hence the word "titanic." The name is appropriate for an extremely strong element taken from the earth.
The development of titanium alloys for industrial use, however, is relatively new. Wilhelm Kroll of Luxembourg is recognized as the father of the modem titanium industry. In the 1930s, he developed a process to manufacture metallic titanium and refined the process in the 1940s. The Kroll method of manufacturing titanium metal is still used today.
The titanium metal industry emerged in the 1950s in response to demand from the emerging aerospace industry which used titanium to build jet planes.
Until the mid-1970s, more than 85% of titanium produced was used in the aerospace industry. Titanium's unique properties--density half that of steel, excellent strength retention to 1,000 degrees F and atmospheric corrosion immunity superior to that of other metals--made it ideal for the construction of the engines and frames of jet planes, rockets and space craft. The military uses the metal in weapons like guided missiles and recoil mechanisms in artillery.
Since the 1970s, the price of titanium mill products has dropped and the metal has been used in a wide range of industries. The most popular compound is titanium dioxide, common in the production of paint pigment, paper, plastics, glass and ceramics. Jewelers might be interested to know that the "stars" in star rubies and sapphires are due to the presence of titanium dioxide. Shipbuilders appreciate titanium's superior resistance to salt water and use it to make ship propellers, shafts and other parts. The Navy uses it on submarines.
Availability
Titanium is the ninth most abundant element in the earth's crust. There is at least a 10,000year supply of titanium ore. Titanium has also been found in meteorites and moon rocks and is present in the sun and other stars. The extraction of titanium from its ores is a relatively slow and costly process, which makes the metal expensive. For years the high cost of titanium limited its use to military and aerospace purposes.
Titanium Watches
Titanium's unusual features present some distinct advantages to watch wearers. Citizen Watch Co., which says it is the world's largest manufacturer of titanium watches, points out that titanium is particularly well suited for sports and divers' watches. It urges retailers to be aware of the following points in dealing with customers:
- Titanium watches are quite comfortable because they are surprisingly light on the wrist. You can feel the difference compared to a steel watch.
- Titanium is hypoallergenic. It's nickel-free. Titanium watches can be worn comfortably even when the skin perspires.
- Because the metal is stronger than steel, titanium watches are more durable.
- The corrosion-resistance feature makes titanium particularly well suited for divers' watches. Titanium is environmentally friendly it conies from the earth and is recyclable.
I hope you found this information useful.
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Sunday, January 11, 2009
Correct Method To Close A Hunter Case Pocket Watch.
The thin glass crystal was prone to breaking and worse yet, the delicate lip of the cover that flipped open was always being damaged due to improper closing of the watch case.
Improper case closing, sounds horrible! Well it is and it was. It is expensive to rebuild the lip that catches the steel spring that holds the hunter case closed. Here is what is supposed to happen. You press in on the crown and the cover flips open. You see what time it is and close the cover. Here is where the problem comes. Many owners simply snapped the cover closed. When this was done without pressing in again on the crown, the steel catch would wear against the soft gold or silver lip. Over time, this would wear away the lip and the cover would not stay closed.
This resulted in another problem. So jewelers would adjust the lid by bending it to compensate for the wear. So now, not only was the lip damaged, but the hinge was also distorted.
We get many hunter cased pocket watches sent to us where both of these problems need to be corrected. It is not cheap. The movement needs to be removed from the case along with some springs to avoid annealing them when the new hinge assembly is soldered into place. So now you can see why it is very important to properly close your hunter cased pocket watch.
Remember....always press the crown in when closing your watch. Press it in far enough so that the lip on the cover clears the steel catch. When the cover is all the way down, release the crown and the catch engages the lip and locks the cover into place. Doing this will allow your watch to be used for years without the need for case rebuilding. It is also a good idea to apply a very small amount of oil on the hinge assembly. This keeps the hinge in perfect working condition and allows the cover to fly open.
A small amount of care can prevent a hundred dollar repair.
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Saturday, January 10, 2009
Electronic movements
The first prototypes of electronic quartz watches were made by the CEH research laboratory in Switzerland in 1962. The first quartz watch to enter production was the Seiko 35 SQ Astron, which appeared in 1969. Modern quartz movements are produced in very large quantities, and even the cheapest wristwatches typically have quartz movements. Whereas mechanical movements can typically be off by several seconds a day, an inexpensive quartz movement in a child's wristwatch may still be accurate to within 500 milliseconds per day—ten times better than a mechanical movement.Some watchmakers combine the quartz and mechanical movements, such as the Seiko Spring Drive, introduced in 2005.
Radio time signal watches are a type of electronic quartz watches which synchronizes (time transfer) its time with an external time source such as an atomic clocks, time signals from GPS navigation satellites, the German DCF77 signal in Europe, WWVB in the US, and others. Movements of this type synchronize not only the time of day but also the date, the leap-year status of the current year, and the current state of daylight saving time (on or off).
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Friday, January 9, 2009
CARING FOR YOUR WATCH
Your watch needs care and regular maintenance to ensure its accuracy and protect its appearance. However, each brand and model has its own specific care guidelines. Always refer to the manufacturer's instruction manual or warranty that came with your watch.
Avoid water damage. Check your watch's water resistance and make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions. (For information on caring for water resistant watches.
If water or condensation appear inside your watch face, have it checked by a watch specialist at your nearest Goldsmiths store.
Avoid leaving your watch in extreme temperatures. Generally, extreme heat can shorten the battery life of a quartz watch, and extreme cold can cause your watch to gain or lose time.
Avoid contact with chemicals, solvents and gases.
Although most watches are, to a degree, shock resistant, avoid extreme shock or impact to your watch.
Avoid exposing your watch to strong electric fields and strong static electricity. Most electrical household appliances will not affect your watch.
If your watch has been worn in salt water, and is not designed to avoid corrosion, have it checked by a watch specialist.
A watch specialist best cleans watches, including their straps.Have your watch checked and serviced regularly by a watch specialist. The manufacturer's instructions will tell you how often you should have your watch serviced.
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Tuesday, December 23, 2008
What’s the difference between Automatic and a Quartz?
Some people may think that this is an embarrassing question to ask, but I can remember a time when I presumed that a smooth, sweeping movement was only reserved for one of those impressive clocks I saw as a child at railway stations. When I found out that you can get a sweep movement in a watch, I had to have one right away!
So, basically speaking, an Automatic movement is one which has a smooth sweeping action, easily demonstrated by a seconds hand as it travels at a continuous cyclic rate around the watch dial. A Quartz movement is the common watch movement, with the repeating starting and stopping action.
Why do collectors prefer Automatic movements? Simply because an Automatic movement represents a higher standard of mechanical engineering than a Quartz movement.
At the heart of an Automatic movement is the the rotor which pivots forwards and backwards at high speed - this uses energy stored in the mainspring, wound by either manually winding the crown of the watch, or the motion of the automatic winding mechanism by the kinetic movement of your wrist. The power is translated via a series of wheels, cams, and pinions.
Differently, a Quartz movement uses a battery, circuit board, and far simpler mechanisms. Take a look at a picture of an Automatic movement versus a Quartz and you’ll appreciate the differences.
For a good investment in a luxury watch, a quality mechanical Automatic movement is always considered to be more valuable than a Quartz movement.
Thanks for reading, I would love to hear your comments.
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